Cruising along a canal in France was an ideal way to see the countryside and experience a land rich in history, culture, food and wine. The France you find in Burgundy feels far removed from the bustle of Paris. When I boarded European Waterways‘ La Belle Époque, (converted from working barge into luxury hotel) in Tanlay, France last spring, I discovered a tranquil countryside, free-flowing French wines, exquisite cheeses, tiny hamlets and a much-needed respite from the mad rush of life. Come along as we wander through the French countryside.

Day 1: Welcome aboard Le Belle Epoque

Belle Epoque in Tanlay. Credit: Susan Lanier-Graham

I joined a friend in Paris and, after two days exploring the city, shopping and dining, we met up with our European Waterways tour guide at a hotel in central Paris. We, along with a British couple and a mother-daughter couple from the U.S., climbed into the comfortable van for a 2-hour ride to France’s Burgundy region.

La Belle Époque holds 12 passengers, so I was thrilled to discover we were the only six passengers for this particular cruise. We made our way past city and settled in to admire the French countryside, fresh and in new bloom in early May.

As we drove into the picturesque town of Tanlay, we spotted our home for the next few days anchored in the canal. We received an all-star welcome onto La Belle Époque as all the crew members lined up to greet us and help us on board.

The young French Captain – Rudy – greeted us in the saloon (adjacent to the dining room) with a smile and glass of champagne. Together, we cheered our new-found friends, our home for the coming week and a successful journey along the way. After a quick tour of the boat, we made our way to our staterooms for a quick nap before dinner.

The Staterooms

Junior suite on board La Belle Epoque. Credit: European Waterways

La Belle Époque was a logging barge built in 1930 to carry wood to Amsterdam. She was refitted as a hotel barge in 1995. Our staterooms were all quite comfortable. I had one of the two smaller rooms, with two twins, but I found it perfect for a single person. (It might have been a tight fit to share.) I had room for my bag on one bed and slept comfortably on the other. There’s a small closet and intimate bathroom with shower. There were plenty of plugs for charging my phone and iPad.

If you need a bit more room, the barge includes two Junior Suites (one with a double bed and one with two singles that can be combined into a double) and two Staterooms that let you configure them with two singles or one double. One suite has 7-foot ceilings while all other staterooms have 6’2”-tall ceilings.

Activities on board

During our tour, we discovered that there are a variety of activities on board to help fill our days – as if the gorgeous scenery weren’t enough. There are touring bikes (which you can use to ride alongside the boat or into the small towns), Jacuzzi hot tub on the deck, deck chairs, CDs and player in the dining room/saloon, board games, books and binoculars.

The first evening

Saloon and dining room on board La Belle Epoque. Credit: European Waterways

After a quick nap in my room, I awoke to the most delicious smells wafting through the cabin. I dressed up a little for dinner and made my way upstairs. I was to discover that meals are always an experience on board La Belle Époque – with gourmet cuisine prepared by the on-board chef, red and white wines described in detail by the captain, an assortment of local breads that changed each day and local cheeses from around the region (click here for more on the great French cheeses I enjoyed during the trip). I adored all the attention to detail. For example, the creamy butter, topped with a sprinkle of sea salt, became my favorite condiment on the table.

The first day, we enjoyed a farm-fresh chicken with potatoes and some of the freshest asparagus ever (it was in season during our visit). Cheeses served were a Beaufort and Bleu d’Auvergne. The wines were exquisite every evening, although I did have a couple of favorites. Our first evening, the red was a 2008 Pernand-Vergelesse Premier Cru, Domaine Chanson. The white offering was a 2008 Montagny Premier Cru, Bouchard Père & Fils.

Reflection of the trees on the Burgundy Canal in Tanlay. Credit: Susan Lanier-Graham

After a comfortable meal, we watched the sun set from the deck and enjoyed after-dinner drinks in the saloon. If you needed anything, it was always a simple request away. Someone from the staff stayed close by to serve us, but we never felt as if someone was hovering nearby. The subtle bob of the barge rocked me to sleep that night, as I eagerly anticipated the next day’s cruise. Tomorrow, off to Lezinne and a castle with a moat.