The Dalles, OR, at the end of the Columbia River Gorge, is great for discovering a new winery or brew pub and dining in a historic saloon.
The Dalles, Oregon, on the sunny end of the Columbia River Gorge, is a small town filled with picturesque Victorians, historic buildings, and friendly people. It’s a great place for a getaway where you can discover a new winery or brewpub and have dinner in a historic saloon.
First of all, you probably wonder how this town came to be known as “The Dalles” and not just plain Dalles. The docents at the Fort Dalles Museum will tell you that The Dalles was named after the many small rock islands creating fast water narrows in the Columbia River. The early French Canadian fur traders called these les dalles. or flagstones. That bit of trivia aside, The Dalles is a destination where you can also learn more about the Columbia Gorge and Oregon history.
The Scenic Journey to The Dalles
Like many people who travel I-84 through the Columbia River Gorge, I’d gassed up at The Dalles but never really stopped to explore. I was on my way to Yakima, WA, and needed an interesting place to stop for the night, someplace I hadn’t yet explored. I received an invitation from The Dalles Chamber of Commerce and headed east on I-84 from the Portland area.
The Hood River Valley Fruit Loop is a popular spring destination west of The Dalles, Oregon. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
After a lovely morning drive along the Hood River Valley Fruit Loop, just west of The Dalles, it was time to check in to The Cousin’s Country Inn, a comfortable motel with an adjoining saloon and restaurant with a fun country theme (think life-sized animal figures and John Deere Tractor at the lobby door). Everything is close to the historic city center, so I headed downtown after I unloaded the car.
Imagine being greeted at your motel by a gorgeous white horse! Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
Discovering The Dalles History
My first stop wasn’t far. As I approached the quaint historic area, I spied a multi-story, beautifully restored Victorian and just had to pull over and have a look. This was the Bennett/Williams Victorian Mansion at the foot of Trevitt Street. A plaque told me it was built in 1899 and was designed by George Barber.
The Bennett/Williams Victorian Mansion is just one of the lovely homes in The Dalles. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
Judge Bennett was a figure in local and statewide legal circles and served on the Oregon State Supreme Court. His daughter Anita married Harold Hopkins, editor of The Dalles Chronicle, in the early 1900s. The downtown area is a registered historic district and features architecture from the late 1800s and early 1900s. Many buildings have interesting stories, like the Bennett/Williams Mansion.
But I wanted to learn more about how the town came to be, so I headed up the hill, past more quaint homes, to the Fort Dalles Museum. I was welcomed by friendly docents available to tour visitors through what is known as the Surgeon’s Quarters, the only remaining officer’s house of the 1856 Fort Dalles military complex (other buildings burned down). It’s one of Oregon’s oldest history museums and first opened in 1905.
A late 1800s living room exhibit at the museum. The Victrola works and the docent will wind it up for you! Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
The Fort Dalles Museum
I was to find out that The Dalles had been a gathering place and trading area for Native people. The Dalles has been a stopping point for travelers and a center of commerce for thousands of years. It’s one of the oldest communities in North America. The Dalles is the end of the Oregon Trail (at least the land part). If pioneers continued west, they would have to load their wagons onto rafts or boats to continue down the Columbia River.
The Dalles was the end of the Oregon Trail by land. Pioneers wanting to reach the Willamette Valley had to brave the Columbia River. This is from a display at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
The Fort once consisted of buildings forming an octagon around a grassy parade ground. Fort Dalles was built when Oregon was a territory and was used mainly for dealing with conflicts with Native Americans. Fort Dalles was first known as Camp Drum and then Fort Drum.
I was intrigued by the Gothic Revival architecture of the Surgeon’s Quarters and was told that this was the least elegant of the officers’ quarters. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
As we toured the museum, I enjoyed displays of Native American artifacts, an early school display, and rooms dedicated to the different populations and times in history.
This colorized historic photo told the story of Celilo Falls, a major fishing ground for Native people before The Dalles Dam was finished in 1957. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
The building and local park were preserved thanks to an early women’s organization, the Sorosis Society. Also on the property is a log home, the Anderson Homestead, which was a part of a Swedish immigrant settlement. It’s a beautifully constructed building, and docents can take you through the home to understand how people lived in the late 1800s.
This was an interesting piece at the Anderson home. It was a beautiful inlaid wood baking cabinet won in 1901 for baking the best yeast-raised bread in The Dalles. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
The Fort Dalles Museum would be a great place to bring children. There are some hands-on exhibits, a collection of antique vehicles and wagons to see, and they can ring the huge bell.
More Museums at The Dalles
If you are hungry for more area history, including the natural history of the Columbia River Gorge, the modern Columbia Gorge Discovery Center is the place to go. It’s a beautiful building, often used for events, with natural walking trails and river views. The Raptor Program, featuring live birds of prey, is a real draw. I was impressed with the quality of the exhibits ranging from a towering wooly mammoth at the Ice Age display to the antique cars at the Historic Columbia River Highway display.
Lifesize Wooly Mammoth at the Ice Age exhibit will wow younger visitors. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
It wasn’t open yet, but I was intrigued when I discovered that The Dalles is home to the National Neon Sign Museum. The City of The Dalles gifted the historic Elks Building at 200 East 3rd Street to be used for the National Neon Sign Museum (NNSM). It’s a huge old building, and I look forward to seeing what’s inside… soon.
Kicking Back in The Dalles
Strolling the streets of downtown, you’ll find buildings from the late 1800s and early 1900s, as well as mid-century modern stores. There are shops and boutiques, a vintage theater, and places to pick up the necessities of agricultural town living.
One of the historic buildings in downtown The Dalles. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
The huge Sunshine Mill, the first building in The Dalles to have electricity, was powered by a Thomas Edison Motor, which can still be seen in The Mill. It is also the only designated skyscraper in The Columbia River Gorge! The cool building now houses a winery and artisan shops. A daily wine tasting is $7 (you can also order a cheese board), and The Mill has a schedule of winemakers’ dinners and even a summer movie series. It’s the home of Quenett Winery and Copa di Vino.
A 100-year-old flour mill has been transformed into a beautiful space full of light and color. Photo courtesy Travel Oregon
As I was strolling downtown, I found Clocktower Ales. Clocktower has a large outdoor deck filled with people enjoying the warm spring weather. Having been fascinated all afternoon by the history of The Dalles, I was interested to know that the pub is located in the second Wasco County Courthouse, built in 1883 and home to the last public hanging in 1905! It’s an impressive building. They serve pub food and have over 30 craft beers on tap.
Things were hopping at Clock Tower Ales. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
That evening I met a volunteer with The Dalles Chamber of Commerce for dinner in a historic saloon. I walked into The Baldwin Saloon and Restaurant. I was immediately impressed with the oil painting of a nude over the large dark wood bar, the friendly bartender chatting with a local in an orange t-shirt, and the walls full of landscape paintings, obviously a carefully chosen turn-of-the-century art collection.
Specialty cocktails, a friendly bartender, and a turn-of-the-century art collection are part of The Baldwin Saloon experience. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
I learned that the building originally housed a saloon opened by the Baldwin Brothers in 1876. It was frequented by the men who worked on the nearby Columbia River and the railroad. Eventually, a brothel was built in a wood-frame building in the back of the brick saloon.
The dining room is simple yet elegant, and the food is hearty and, as you would expect, excellent American comfort food. I enjoyed a large house-made Chicken Cordon Bleu, which was so large that the side dishes—potatoes O’Brien and fresh veggies—were delivered on a second plate. Having dinner in a historic building with a bawdy past was a fitting end to my explorations of The Dalles’ history.
While my dining companion had a nice chicken salad, I opted to try some real comfort food… Chicken Cordon Bleu. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
More to Do and Experience in The Dalles
My dinner companion pointed out the many hiking opportunities in the area. Just across the Columbia River in Washington is the Columbia Plateau State Park, with views of the Columbia River and, in spring, vibrant yellow and purple wildflowers.
The Washington side of the Columbia Gorge offers hiking opportunities and stunning views. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
If a scenic walk or bike is your style, you can enjoy the ten-mile paved Riverfront Trail.
Over on the Washington side of the river (take The Dalles Bridge to SR-14), you’ll find Maryhill Winery and the Maryhill Museum of Art. Many people stay in The Dalles when attending events at the winery and museum.
The Maryhill Winery is just across the river from The Dalles. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose
If you don’t mind crowds and lots of fun, visit The Dalles during their annual Cherry Festival. It’s a small-town festival celebrating a big-time crop with parades, a carnival, and special events throughout town.
Art lover? The Dalles has a two-story art center and a Gorge Artists Open Studio Tour annually. Touring the murals is a fun way to combine a love of history with art. Many are painted on historic buildings depicting historical events of the area.
Articles Related to The Dalles
- Escape to a Columbia River Gorge Cabin
- Columbia River Gorge Washington: Road Trip on the Less-Traveled Side
- Discovering Wine, Food and Sunshine in Washington’s Yakima Valley
- The Columbia River Gorge is Open, Scenic and Ready for Visitors
- Discover Food in The Dalles and Along the East Gorge Food Trail
When You Go to The Dalles
Remember, The Dalles is on the sunny end of the Columbia River Gorge, only 84 miles east of Portland. It’s a great place to visit when you get weary of the Pacific Northwest grey seasons. There is much to do and experience in the Dalles, so it makes for a great weekend getaway or vacation. The people who live there, many of whom are descendants of early settlers, are proud of their town and open to sharing stories and history with visitors.
While there are many motels in The Dalles, those wanting a more authentic experience might find a B&B like the R&R Guest House more to their liking. I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting R&R but I understand they have a saltwater pool, hot tub, and a locally sourced gourmet breakfast.
Check out the Dalles Chamber of Commerce website for more information. For more adventures in Oregon, enjoy our articles on Oregon from Wander.
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