Aix-en-Provence is a lovely city disguised as a small village. It is a city of gorgeous architecture, lots of fountains, incredible history dating back to Roman times and sophisticated shops and restaurants to satisfy anyone’s tastes. I spent two months exploring Aix-en-Provence and here are my must-do, must-see, and must-eats!

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There are so many things to do in the charming French town of Aix-en-Provence. Photo by Xantana via iStock by Getty Images

Must-Do: Shopping in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence lies in the south of France, about 25 miles north of Marseilles and the Mediterranean, and it is everything you read about Provence. The city lies among the lavender fields, olive trees, goat cheese farms, honey producers, and wineries that make up the region’s agriculture, but in many ways, it is the Paris of the South.

Any designer from Hermes to Agnes B. has an outpost here. So do Gap, Sephora, and Apple. The shopping is fantastic and the dollar is strong, therefore, quality items that used to seem expensive, now appear reasonable. After almost two months here, I know I can reliably count on a few places outside of the Saturday cheap “frangs” markets for reasonable, stylish finds. One is right outside my front door (after descending four steep flights) and is adorably named Mango.

A chain, but with a little more style and liberal return and exchange policies, my daughter and I found several wardrobe pieces here. And, as an Amerian accustomed to changing my mind or returning the wrong size, Mango, like San Marina shoes and a few other more progressive chains, easily refunds a purchase if returned. The French hate reimbursement and usually make it very difficult.

There are beautiful shops in Aix-en-Provence. Photo by AdrianHancu via iStock by Getty Images

Local stores I love in Aix-en-Provence are the family leatherworkers of Vents Sauvage (wild winds) and the hip Red Soul clothing boutique. Located near each other at the intersection of Rue Rifle-Rafle (yes, the real name!) and Rue Granet, they are stores that are helpful to the customer and work with you to find the right items and fit. It is typical in stores that a salesperson will completely ignore you, and I usually decide to just walk back out the door. Service is improving in France, but remember you are the customer, and feel free to exercise your right not to shop!

Monoprix on the Cours Mirabeau is a unique hybrid of a full-on grocery store in the basement and a department store on the ground floor and above. This is the place to buy shampoos, makeup, underwear, and essentials. I also found a great pair of boots here. Caution: checkout is like herding cats, so stay strong.

Unique gifts can be found in specialty shops like La Patisserie on rue Paul Bert, where the English-speaking David offers artisanal pastis in the first shop of its kind in France. This is a very unique and Provencal gift.

Must-See: Museums of Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is very manageable and it is entirely conceivable to shop, see a museum, and have a fabulous meal – or two – in a single day. My favorite museum experience is two museums for one ridiculously wonderful and inexpensive experience. Musee Granet is the perfect-sized museum with a massive collection of the works of Granet, Ingres, and other early Provencal artists, as well as the local favorite Paul Cezanne and those he inspired. There are always visiting exhibits, too, and we loved Olivier Bernex and his vast tableaus.

One of dozens of Picassos at Collection Jean Planque at the Musee Granet. Photo by Barbara Barrielle

When you pay the modest 5.5€ to visit the Musee Granet, they automatically give you a second ticket for the Collection Jean Planque, their second museum in a converted church that will, without hesitation, take your breath away. Planque, an advisor to the government on art acquisition, became friendly with many artists, including Picasso, and bought for his collection. This gorgeous church is heaving with priceless art that was the decor in the home of a true art lover. Stunning and memorable, this museum, like the Granet, is easy to navigate, and you can visit both in one day or over several.

I highly suggest a morning at Musee Granet and a peek into the church next door for their santon village, then descend a short block to Rue Fernand Dol and my favorite restaurant in Aix-en-Provence. My daughter and I accidentally stumbled on La Brocherie when visiting the Granet and Planque museums in the Mazarin Quarter off the Cours Mirabeau. La Boucherie is unique with its open-hearth fireplace, where everything on the menu is grilled, from the gambas to the duck breast. At lunch, it is a true bargain with a 15 Euros menu that includes a choice of a “plat du jour,” or daily special, and a hors d’oeuvres buffet.

Another museum in the area is the beautifully redone Hotel Caumont, which has its visiting collections and an elegant tea room. The best reason to visit Hotel Caumont is the film about the life of Paul Cezanne. A fictionalized account but well-acted, this overview should be one of your first stops in understanding the passion of Cezanne, his contemporaries, followers, and imitators have with the region of Aix-en-Provence. The restaurant serves lunch and tea, and I hear wine-tasting jazz evenings in the summer are all the rage!

Inner courtyard of the Hotel de Caumont in Aix-en-Provence. Photo by Jean-Luc Ichard via iStock by Getty Images

Must-Eat: The Restaurants of Aix-en-Provence

In my time in Aix-en-Provence, I have had the opportunity to eat at many restaurants, and I am still discovering more. Certain restaurants that were not only welcoming and delicious but also a good value are the ones I return to most. One evening, when we were seeking out a restaurant that was highly rated on TripAdvisor for its value and escargots, we arrived only to be turned away because we had a dog.

This was the only time we were rejected because of the dog and we will never go back. Fortunately, across the street, Jacquou Le Croquant, with its rustic exterior, English-speaking waiters, and a beautiful owner who, peeking up from her cooking, yelled, “We love dogs” made our night very special. Jacquou specializes in the cuisine of southwest France and its duck products, including the famous cassoulet. Cassoulet is traditionally cooked in a shallow, covered baking dish. If you want to try it at home, you might like the Chasseur Enameled Braiser. My daughter had a pasta dish I would order repeatedly with its pieces of duck breast, sun-dried tomatoes, and thick slices of foie gras.

The typical Cassoulet of Southwestern France, with duck, boudin, and white beans, is featured at Jacquou Le Croquant. Photo by Barbara Barrielle

My first restaurant in Aix-en-Provence was a popular cafe on the Cours Mirabeau, and I often return for the biggest club sandwich I have ever seen and well-priced salads (including my favorite salade au chevre chaud), Croque monsieurs, and other sandwiches. Bar Le Grillon is open from 6 am to 2 am and serves various food and drinks no matter your needs.

Bar Le Grillon on the Cours Mirabeau has extensive outdoor seating and the tallest club sandwich in Europe! Great prices. Photo by Barbara Barrielle

Close to my earlier shop suggestions of Red Soul and Vents Sauvage is the popular Le Forum with its brasserie ambiance and fresh “coquillages,” or shellfish, that happily take up a place on their terrace every weekend. One of the best white wines in “pichet” or well-priced bulk wines sold by 25 or 50 centiliters I had was here paired with succulent fresh oysters. They also have very good daily specials or “plats du jours.”

Le Forum has excellent shellfish on weekends, escargots, and the special dish of Capon at Christmas. Photo by Barbara Barrielle

A few doors down from Le Forum is a complete hole-in-the-wall restaurant that serves the best cheeseburgers and Chicago-style hot dogs in Aix-en-Provence. Aux Petits Oignons is literally a closet of deliciousness, with excellent fries and better cheesecake than I have had in New York. Quel Surprise!

A few steps away and a few levels above, my favorite burger place is L’Incontournable at the beautiful little Place des Trois Ormeaus. Excellent daily specials and a perfectly balanced selection of menu items served on beautiful china with a perfect presentation. I had beef cheeks, excellently paired with a Rhône from the restaurant’s resident sommelier, who selects very good wines to be served “par verre” or by the glass.

Beef cheeks for me and an elevated fish and chips for my dining partner. Great wines by the glass. Photo by Barbara Barrielle

People eat late in France, and you won’t find anyone in a restaurant before 7 pm, but you will find them in the cafes in every plaza in Aix-en-Provence. There are even happy hours, and my favorite is the five-euro Mojitos in all kinds of great flavors (ginger for me) at the Cutback in Place Cardeurs. Bars, as we know them, are not common in Aix but I recently discovered L’AS tapas bar around the corner from my fifth-floor garret. Excellent wines by the glass, convivial professional atmosphere, and amazing food, including grilled calamari to die for. Glasses of wine run between 4 and 7 Euros. My favorite is the Chateau Cremade from the local and famed Palette appellation. L’AS and the wine have kicked my second month in France off to a good start!

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Visiting Aix-en-Provence, France

You will love exploring this charming town in France’s famed Provence region. You can read more about my travels to Aix-en-Provence here. Be sure to check out Wander for more to see and do when you visit France.