Nelson, New Zealand, boasts a vibrant arts community, excellent restaurants, great hiking, and is close to the Marlborough wine region.
With some of the most intense blue-green waters and tree fern-studded forests anywhere, New Zealand is my favorite foreign destination. I was itching to return for my ninth visit, especially after canceling my October 2020 trip. We picked Nelson, New Zealand, as our longest stay due to its vibrant arts community, excellent restaurants, ample hiking trails, public gardens, and proximity to the Marlborough wine region and Abel Tasman National Park.
Wilson’s Abel Tasman boat leaving Anchorage Bay. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
Arriving in Nelson, New Zealand
My brother and his wife would join my wife, my sister, and me on this trip. On our first day in town, we needed to get our rental car, check in at our lodging, then find a place to eat within walking distance of our home away from home. If you’re looking for a rental car, a company like Go Rentals in Nelson will give you the freedom to explore in your own time and leisure. Our three-bedroom, two-bathroom vacation rental, Brookville Cottage, which bordered a creek, was peaceful, comfortable, and relatively affordable.
This creekside refuge put us within walking distance of downtown Nelson making it easy to get to Mama Cod on Trafalgar Street for dinner. The upper end of Trafalgar Street has several eateries to consider. Hopgoods is my favorite, but it was booked every night of our Nelson stay. Mama Cod was a good second choice, and we loved the fish and chips, oysters, and halloumi sliders.
Brookville Cottage in Nelson, New Zealand. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
Road Trip Around Nelson, New Zealand
I drove our trusty rental van to the Marlborough region for lunch and winery hopping on our first full day. Havelock is one of my favorite tiny towns to visit on the way to wine country. We stopped at Havelock for first-class public restrooms and a taste of green-lip mussels. Green lip mussels are raised nearby and are loads better than the black variety sold at most American and European restaurants.
New and clean public toilets at Havelock. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
After a snack of mussels at the Mussel Pot and homemade meat pies next door at the Sneaky Beach Bakery and Café, we were off to the wineries. A note about meat pies in New Zealand. Unlike American pot pies, the Kiwi version is usually superior, especially if made onsite at bakeries and takeaway cafes. Try the different pies like mince, lamb and kumara, Indian spiced pies, and whatever grabs you. We had the steak and mushroom pie at Sneaky Beach Cafe, which was a winner.
The Mussel Pot in Havelock is one of my favorite cafes in NZ! Photo by Kurt Jacobson
Wine Tasting Near Nelson, New Zealand
The Marlborough Wine Region is New Zealand’s most famous. Our first stop was Saint Clair Family Estate, a plan “B” winery. I had wanted to visit Seresin, but they were closed that day. As we walked up the entrance of St Clair, I saw a sandwich board sign stating they were full. Undeterred, I asked if they could fit us in for a quick lunch and a glass of wine. Ashley, who seemed to be the manager, granted my request.
Note: If you want to visit a winery in New Zealand, it’s best to check two to three weeks before your visit to see if they are open and if reservations are required.
Outdoor wine and dining area at Saint Clair Winery, Marlborough, New Zealand. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
We ordered their vineyard platter, which arrived before anyone could take our wine order. The staff was so busy I went to the bar and offered to take our glasses of wine to the table to relieve them of the task. I ordered two glasses of chardonnay and two glasses of sauvignon blanc, which were excellent.
Vineyard platter at St Clair winery. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
Nautilus
Our next stop for wine tasting was Nautilus. I was the designated driver, so my family members had to taste on my behalf. While they were sampling wine, I walked across the road to Wairau River Winery and saw yet another sign stating they were fully booked. At least I got to pop in for a look while in the area.
Back in Nelson, it being Sunday, I remembered having dinner at The Vic Public House on a previous trip and having their Sunday Roast special. I recommended everyone order the special Sunday roast beef. We loved the tender beef brisket, mashed potatoes, baked potatoes, roasted parsnips, and carrots. That tasty food was reasonably priced and included a free drink! My sister opted for the fried chicken that was ample enough to share, and we all thought it was delicious too.
Sunday roast special at The Vic in Nelson. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
A Day Of Rest
With our intense travel schedule, spending a day in Nelson just walking around exploring, shopping, and dining made sense. We walked throughout the town to the Queen’s Gardens, Cathedral Gardens, along Trafalgar Street, and into a couple of bakeries for research. A lovely retired gent strolling the Queen’s Garden told us, “You should try the Suter Art Gallery Café. It’s a good place for a meal.”
We were only steps away, so we took his advice. As we entered the cafe, Katrina, the manager, greeted us warmly and said, “Please don’t take photos of the bakery display as everything hasn’t been stocked yet.”
A friendly local at the Queen’s Gardens in Nelson. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
This café was one of the best during our trip, and the lamb and kumara pie was fabulous.
The ladies in our group loved exploring the art shops in downtown Nelson while my brother and I tagged along to keep them from spending too much. All that walking and shopping brought on hunger pangs, and we had a cure in mind.
One of several art gallery shops in Nelson. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
The Boat Shed Café
Lunch was at The Boat Shed Café, overlooking Tasman Bay; a must for seafood lovers. The aquamarine color of the bay is a feast for the eyes, and the baked mussels were deliciously paired with the Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc. Parking is a bit tricky so take a taxi if possible.
The Boat Shed Cafe is one of my favorite restaurants in Nelson. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
The rest of the afternoon, post lunch, was spent either walking the town or chilling at the Brookville Cottage. Not to be outdone by New Zealand restaurants, my brother and I cooked up a dinner of local specialties. My vineyard platter, paired with a Villa Maria rosé, had local avocados, locally smoked green lip mussels, New Zealand cheese, bell peppers, and tomatoes for outdoor appetizers and wine on the patio.
My homemade vineyard platter was a delicious starter. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
The main dinner event featured grilled New Zealand lamb chops, cooked by my brother, plus asparagus, lamb pies from the Suter Art Gallery Café, a green salad, and oven-roasted veggies. I’m a traveler who loves to cook on vacation and take advantage of local fare. I find it too much to dine out for every meal on an extended vacation. Our homemade meal at the Brookville Cottage was one of the most enjoyable of the trip.
Abel Tasman National Park
I had hiked parts of Abel Tasman National Park on three previous occasions. However, my brother and his wife had never been to New Zealand and needed to see this spectacular park. We decided to take the Wilson’s Anchorage/Pitt Head trip. Wilson’s has a boat that takes customers near the beach and lowers a walkway, so customers don’t have to wade to shore as we did years ago on our first Abel Tasman trip. We boarded at Kaiterteri, and after a short stop at Split Apple Rock, we motored to our drop-off point in Anchorage Bay.
Signs like this one are often found while hiking Abel Tasman. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
After disembarking, we walked the beach to the trailhead and hiked to the lookout. As we walked from the beach through the campsite, my brother said something about a duck waddling near the bushes. When I looked, I saw not a duck but a weka, a flightless bird I’d only seen twice during my previous eight trips to New Zealand. Wekas and kiwis are flightless birds decimated by introduced mammals over the last hundred years. It was great to see this first weka of the trip, but we’d see several more over the next two hours.
One of several wekas we saw on our hike. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
A Stunning Hike
Our hike up to the lookout was invigorating and scenic. The trail offered a close-up look at the ubiquitous tree ferns that give the area a mythical jungle feel. At the top, no one else was on the lookout, and we took several photos of the bay along with a group shot.
The view from high above Abel Tasman. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
When we returned to the campground, we had 45 minutes to explore before boarding the boat for the ride back to Kaiteriteri. More wekas entertained us in and around the campsite; we even saw one Weka chase another out of its territory at high speed. Wilson’s offers custom trips of 2, 4, or 8 hours or several days for those who want a more extensive stay. For us, the two-hour trip was perfect.
Motueka is a town worth stopping at on the way to or back from Abel Tasman. Known for its small-town charm, good cafes, and art, I recommend stopping by the i-Site building to find out what to see and do.
The Brook Sanctuary in Nelson, New Zealand
I had seen the signs for the Brook Waimārama Sanctuary on previous visits to Nelson without investigating it further. On my recent visit, I checked out their website and knew I had to get into this special re-wilding project. They are only open Friday-Sunday; I didn’t find this out until Monday. I sent an email plea to get in, pointing out I was a writer, and I got their attention. I was allowed to visit on Tuesday afternoon for 30 minutes.
The new visitor center at The Brook during construction. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
The Brook has about 9 miles (14.4 km) of protective fence that keeps invasive predators out. The fence gives native critters a chance to thrive away from non-native predators. Visitors might see rare and endangered species like geckos, weta, kereru, and other vital native wildlife on their walk. To see The Brook’s hours and fees, visit their website and prepare to see lots of New Zealand wildlife.
The Queen’s Gardens
The Queen’s Gardens is great for seeing towering trees, flowers, tui, and other birds. A peaceful walk in the gardens is a perfect way to unwind and catch your breath before embarking on the next adventure. With the Suter Art Gallery next to the park, consider taking a break for their art exhibits, excellent museum shop, and cafe. As you walk the town, you’ll likely see other tall trees in unsuspected places, like the huge Sequoia I saw along a stream near our vacation rental.
One of several tall trees in Nelson’s downtown area. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
Speaking of walks. The Centre of New Zealand is a popular trail up Botanical Hill to what they say is the geographic center of New Zealand. I’ve hiked this scenic trail on past trips and seen both Tui and bellbirds. The view of Tasman Bay and the city of Nelson rewards those who make it to the top. There are other trails you can hike downward, one of which takes you to the Black Hole swimming spot.
A beautiful bird along the trail up Botanical Hill. Photo by Kurt Jacobson
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Farewell Nelson, New Zealand
Once again, my visit to Nelson confirmed this town is my favorite in New Zealand. With more time, I would have taken the Havelock Green Mussel Cruise, gone fishing with a guide in Tasman Bay, hiked the Center of New Zealand trail, and visited local Nelson and Motueka wineries. I hope you include Nelson, New Zealand, on your trip and suggest you reserve activities and restaurants ahead of time to make the most of your trip. Let Wander With Wonder be your guide when planning your next trip to New Zealand, Australia, or another fabulous part of the globe.
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