I awoke after my first night on board La Belle Époque to the sounds of the barge preparing to depart. I heard the distant sound of the captain giving direction to his crew and the gentle whip of water against the sides. I felt like a child as the barge set out on its slow trek along the canal. As the French countryside slipped past, the smell of fresh-brewed coffee pulled me from my bed.

Belle Epoque in Tanlay. Credit: Susan Lanier-Graham

Morning on board

Breakfast is served every morning from 7:30 to 9:30, encouraging guests to enjoy a leisurely start to the day. I made my way upstairs and discovered a couple of other passengers already enjoying their meal. After ordering what I discovered to be the best cappuccino I’ve had anywhere, I enjoyed a beautiful croissant with locally-made marmalade, more of that salted butter, some of the best yogurt in the world (I love French yogurt and am saddened we have nothing even close to it in the US) and a plate of fresh fruit.

Saffron in bloom along the Burgundy Canal. Credit: Susan Lanier-Graham

The casual amble along the canal that morning was a memory I’ll hold forever. We passed fields covered in yellow saffron blooms while white Charolaise cattle dotted the hillsides. Every now and then some ancient stone building stood testimony to the agelessness of this European waterway.

Each little lock held some treasure – funky decorations, centuries-old homes, an assortment of locals, a knick-knack or two for sale and always the requisite dog. It became such a fun treat to snap photos as we moved through the locks or watch the dogs clamoring for scraps from the chef. One special moment was moving through the lock as a father showed his young son the boat. Although they spoke French and I couldn’t understand the conversation, I could imagine the discussion as this little toddler watched in awe as the lock slowly filled with water until the gate opened, letting us slip out the other side. His wide-eyed amazement at the process made me appreciate my trip even more.

Lunch on board

Deck of Belle Epoque. Credit: Susan Lanier-Graham

We spent the morning in a variety of spots – sitting on deck reading and listening to music, hiking along the banks and biking the trail alongside the canal. I must admit that I had a hard time settling down and simply relaxing. I seemed to move from spot to spot and I was guilty of checking my email several times during the day.

As the lunch hour neared and we sat down inside (the weather had turned a bit drizzly outside) to a feast of beef with spicy zucchini and sweet onions, Neufchatel cheese and chevre au Piment d’Espelette, we pulled into the scenic little village of Lezinne. Our lunch wine featured a red and white option again (we each had a glass of both) – 2008 Rully, Bouchard Père & Fils and 2009 Santenay Bouchard Père & Fils. I sipped my wine and watched as the captain carefully pulled us alongside the shore. I was already itching for the first excursion.

Excursion to Le Chateau d’Tanlay

Chateau d’Tanlay. Credit: Susan Lanier-Graham

There was no rush to finish our meal, but we eventually set out in the van with our guide for the first off-boat excursion. We headed back a few minutes to the town of Tanlay (ironically, where we’d been docked the evening before) and paid a visit to the Renaissance-era Castle of Tanlay, or Le Chateau d’Tanlay.

Construction began on the castle in 1535 A.D. After passing to a new owner in 1642, a central wing was built, along with a moat and stables. In 1704, the castle passed to Marquis de Tanlay and that same family owns it today, still occupying much of the property.

There was something so uniquely French about exploring the château, visiting rooms built in the Renaissance, but catching a glimpse of the modern children’s swing set in the midst of formal gardens. There are guided tours offered several times daily that give you a peek inside royal lifestyles – bridging the gap between the Renaissance world and today.

After touring the castle, we all ambled back at our own pace to the drop-off point, where we then headed back to our home-away-from-home, still anchored in Lezinne.

Dinner on board

We returned to the barge late afternoon, with just enough time to rest before dinner. Dinner started with warm goat cheese, salad and cider vinaigrette. Pork fillet was paired with morel mushrooms. Two more beautiful cheeses – Brillat Savarin and Petit Munster – were served with local breads. The chef then offered a crème brulee for dessert. I couldn’t very well say no, could I?

Once again, our wines were exquisite examples of why French wines – and particularly those from Burgundy – still top the lists of the world’s best wines. Our white selection was a 2010 Pouilly-Fuisse, Bastion de L’Oratoire Chanson and the red was a 2010 Volnay Premier Cru, Bouchard Père & Fils.

After dinner, I took a little walk around the village of Lezinne before returning to La Belle Époque and a nightcap, excited to see what beautiful sights – and great food and wine – the next day would bring. Follow along tomorrow as we continue our trek on the Burgundy canal.

Missed day one of my European Waterways tour? Check it out here or continue on to day three of my journey for a visit to Chablis.