Embark on a 4-day yacht cruise in Indonesia! The luxurious Prana by Atzaro, a traditional phinisi yacht, takes you to magnificent Raja Ampat.
To think that I nearly didn’t go! The invitation to join a four-day cruise to Raja Ampat in Indonesia on a traditional phinisi yacht arrived in my inbox three days before departure, colliding with a planned trip to Venice, Italy.
I have never traveled farther east than Hong Kong and had only a vague idea of where Raja Ampat was located. Raja Ampat sits at the heart of the Coral Triangle and hosts over 1,600 species of fish and 75% of all known coral species on Earth—more marine biodiversity than anywhere else on the planet. Seasoned yacht travelers often compare it to Mediterranean favorites, especially those who have tried boats to rent in Ibiza, where the Balearic backdrop offers glamorous coves, Posidonia seagrass meadows (a UNESCO-protected ecosystem older than the pyramids), and lively beach clubs just minutes apart. Raja Ampat delivers the opposite mood: 1,500 remote islands, jungle-covered karst towers, and anchorages where you may not see another boat for days. Together, these two destinations bookend the yachting world — one polished and social, the other wild and primal — and both belong on any serious cruiser’s bucket list.
A quick look at the yacht Prana by Atzaro and its itinerary—which mentioned things like pearl farms, birds of paradise, floating in lagoons, snorkeling to see reefs, and BBQs on pristine beaches—made the decision easy. Instead of packing winter woolies for Venice (it was the beginning of February), I rushed out to buy a few bikinis and suntan lotion. I embarked on a journey of more than 20 hours, with four flights, to explore the wonders of an archipelago just off the coast of West Papua.
Raja Ampat, Indonesia. Photo by Wasis Wibowo via Pixabay
Arriving at The Prana by Atzaro
The last leg of the flight from Jakarta to Sorong with Garuda Airlines already introduced me to Indonesian hospitality and smiles. I think they are born with a smile on their faces; it comes so naturally. Seeing the long way I had already traveled from Alicante/Spain, I was upgraded to Business—and I didn’t even ask. They plied me with refreshing drinks, snacks, pillows, and blankets.
On arrival in Sorong, four members of The Prana crew stood in the lobby to welcome us and take care of our luggage. They whisked us off in limousines to Sorong Harbor and into speedboats, which took us to the Prana, anchored off the coast.
What a sight! She wasn’t under sail, but what floated before our eyes was a beautiful wooden yacht, with hand-carved sides and railings, the four masts swaying in the wind. She looked like she was right out of a Hollywood movie, sans pirates hanging over the railings.
This was my ideal cruise ship, with a maximum of 19 passengers. There were only 11 of us on my cruise, but within a day, we felt like family. The staff waited on us hand and foot. They unpacked our luggage, provided us with slippers (there were no shoes on board), brought coffee and fruit drinks, hot towels, and even an Aspirin in the blink of an eye.
Life Onboard The Prana
The cabins are surprisingly spacious for a yacht this size, with an en-suite bathroom, a rain shower, and a huge basket of beauty products. I need not have bothered with suntan lotion; theirs was so much better. There is one super suite on the top deck with a salon, bar, and all-around windows.
The Prana has four decks, all with several big resting areas filled with plush cushions and blankets. The dining area on the main deck is where we had lunch and dinner. Breakfast was served in a salon that also served as a sitting room for relaxing, reading, or watching TV. However, with little Internet access, the TV on the yacht is more decorative than anything else. You’ll enjoy a few days of Internet detox!
For breakfast, they served large platters of bami or nasi goreng, eggs any way upon request, from poached to fried, fruit, yogurts, cereals, and such a great variety of fresh fruit juices as I have never seen or tasted before. Coffee, teas, mineral water, you name it, they brought it.
Nasi Goreng is a traditional Indonesian breakfast item. Photo by Public Domain Pictures from Pixabay.
The star of the kitchen was undoubtedly the Balinese cook. After breakfast, he appeared with a notepad, announced three lunch and dinner choices, and jotted them down.
The Parana also has a small spa and offers various massage options. After the long flight, I needed one for my tired legs, and Anna from Java got down to business. She worked me over, saying, “It may hurt now, but it’s good for you later.” And she was relentless. However, she was right, and afterward, everybody asked for Anna.
Frankly, I could easily have spent four days lounging around on the yacht, being pampered by all the luxury and watching the islands glide past, but that’s not why I chose a yacht cruise in Indonesia.
Exploring the Waters in Raja Ampat
Raja Ampat is an archipelago comprising more than 1200 islands in the Coral Triangle, between the Philippines, Indonesia, and Oceania. Only four of them are larger; the rest are mostly uninhabited, and some are just rocks poking out of the ocean.
The islands are famous for their incredible underwater world, colorful reefs, rare fish, giant mantas, and much more. Raja Ampat has 10 times as many hard coral species as the Caribbean. Then there are lagoons, white beaches, and rainforest vegetation on the islands. There are small villages, homestays, ranger stations, pearl farms, jungle hikes, and viewpoints.
The emphasis on the Prana is on diving and snorkeling. She carries all the necessary equipment, and two dive masters accompany her. I don’t scuba dive, but I snorkel, and the maritime life is so rich that even just putting your head underwater, fish swim up to you and kiss your mask. On one of my swims, I was accompanied by a giant turtle.
She also carries paddleboards, canoes, and floats shaped like oranges and strawberries for lazy drifting after all the water activities.
Islands to Discover on the Yacht Cruise in Indonesia
The first stop was Waigeo, which is the largest island. Mostly covered with jungle and rainforest, this is where two rare species of birds of paradise live. To watch them mating, we had a 4 am wake-up call. We hopped in the speed boats, followed by a steep climb, which is challenging as you have to—literally—scale some rocks to reach the highest trees at the top. At 6 am, the birds start flapping their wings, chirping loudly, and mating for precisely one hour as if they had an inner watch! After that, silence until the next day. It was a fantastic experience.
Bird of Paradise seen on Waigeo in Raja Ampat, Indonesia. Photo by Serhanoksay via Creative Commons.
Back down, we visited the colorful village of Saporkrem, where the villagers were welcoming and smiling. They will be thrilled if you learn a few words of Indonesian.
Mioskom Island, the second biggest, was the next stop. This was a paradise for the divers on board the Prana. The water is turquoise, and you can see the red and yellow reefs looking down. They are even more impressive at depths from 20 to 60 meters. The fish come in all sizes and colors, from tiny to giant mantas and the odd shark. But snorkeling was equally rewarding.
Other islands we visited were Wayag, Piaynemo, and Aljuy Bay. Wayag has another climb in store, up to Mount Pindito, where you can view the iconic mushroom-like islands, all covered with dense rain forest, just jutting out of the sea. Each island is surrounded by incredibly clear water and rings of white beaches.
Piaynemo, the smallest island, is a nature reserve. To get another overview, climb 392 steps through the jungle to a wooden platform.
At the foot of the path, there are small stands where villagers sell coconuts, opened to drink water, as well as coconut soap, coconut lotion, and not much else. For a cheaper vacation than a cruise on the Prana, Piaynemo offers homestays and dive tours that can be booked through the company.
And then it was time for Aljuy Bay and the pearl farm. I love pearls. I wear a piece of pearl jewelry every day. The Atlas Pearl Farm is Australian-owned and employs some 20 locals. The presentation of the labor-intensive and time-consuming process of maturing oysters made me appreciate them even more. Then, we were shown how pearls are harvested. The oyster is clamped into a device, then gently teased open with hot air, and…with luck…out pops a perfect pearl. The best for last is lovely pearl rings and necklaces, or even loose ones from white to pink to gray.
The crowning glory of the last day was a BBQ on the beach. The crew brought everything over, including chairs and umbrellas, and returned everything the same way. The chef surprised us with a seafood feast, giant lobsters, steaks, and grilled vegetables.
Meanwhile, the Prana raised her sails so that we could admire her majestic beauty. It was yet another wow moment, I can assure you.
After the BBQ, we walked along the beach to another adventure: swimming with sharks. In the shallow water, mostly baby sharks came close to shore.
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Sailing on The Prana in Raja Ampat
Sailing on The Prana is an absolute pleasure, with breathtaking scenery and an excellent crew. The best time to visit Raja Ampat is between November and March. Most rain falls between May and October, making jungle paths very slippery.
Ensure you have plenty of cash in the local currency—the Indonesian Rupee—for tips and minor purchases. Credit cards are impractical, primarily because there is very little Internet access.
I’m so glad I decided to take the yacht cruise in Indonesia. I didn’t want to leave. Indonesia has captured my heart, and my next trip will be to Java and Sumatra.
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