Old City Bangkok, or Rattanakosin, is filled with treasures and delights. Here is what to see and do in Thailand’s Old City Bangkok.
Old City Bangkok, or Rattanakosin as it is more correctly known, is Bangkok’s birthplace. It was created by Siam’s King Rama I in 1782. It was a grand city then and still is today. This ‘island city’ is dwarfed by the sprawling, teeming, boisterous, and full-on modern Bangkok, with 10.7 million people surrounding it.
Old City Bangkok remains the cultural and historic heart of Thailand and is home to many of Bangkok’s must-see attractions. Missing Rattanakosin would be like visiting Paris and skipping the Champs-Elysées.
Exploring Rattanakosin means spending hours walking between temples, markets, and riverside streets, where it’s easy to get lost without a compass. Having fast mobile data helps you navigate like a local between landmarks like Wat Pho, the Grand Palace, and the Chao Phraya ferry piers. Ohayu eSIM for Thailand connects to the best available 5G signal in Bangkok, including the Old City, so maps and local guides load instantly even in busy areas. It keeps cell service reliable without the need to hunt for Wi-Fi or switch SIM cards.
I have lived in Thailand for nearly a decade, and I still feel drawn to Rattanakosin’s treasures and delights each time I visit the capital. There is always something to see and do, be it a new exploration or a revisit to delve deeper. Let me guide you to what I consider highlights for any first-time visitor. First, here is a little back story to add some context to Old City Bangkok.
Old City Bangkok—A Brief History
Siam’s history can be divided into four key periods centered on the capital of that time. First was Sukhothai from 1238-1438, followed by the golden era of Ayutthaya (1350–1767). The Ayutthaya period was ended by the invading Burmese armies, who destroyed the city-kingdom. Those who fled the Burmese forces established a new capital on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River at Thonburi, directly opposite what is now Old City Bangkok. Thus, Thonburi became Siam’s new capital.
Thonburi – old capital Fort and Temple. Photo by Michael Cullen
The General leading the armies that ultimately defeated the Burmese was enthroned as King Rama I. His first decision was to move the capital across the river to Rattanakosin, as he believed that location could be better defended. This new city had the broad Chao Phraya River as its western front, while moats were dug on the eastern side to protect it from land attacks. Those moats are now canals and remain to this day.
Original Rattanakosin fortifications. Photo by Michael Cullen
The magnificence of the Grand Palace, holy temples, seats of learning, imposing government offices, and more ensured a capital befitting the kingdom. Many awe-inspiring buildings and parks dating back to the early eras still stand, demonstrating the capital’s grandeur. It is important to note that the Thai people, unlike their Southeast Asian neighbors, were never under the control of European colonizers. This is a particular point of pride for the Thai population and helps to explain why they hold their history, royal institutions, and Thai language and culture in such high esteem.
My Old City Bangkok Highlights
With the river on one side and the canals on the other, Rattanakosin is only 1.2 miles from west to east and 1.7 miles from north to south. Most must-visit sites and attractions are in the southern half, meaning you can walk to most sites easily. Though not filled with the top-draw attractions, the north side has much to see and explore. However, this article focuses on the key attractions in the southern half of Rattanakosin.
For those with only a limited time in Bangkok, I recommend allocating a day for Rattanakosin’s absolute must-visits: The Grand Palace and Wat Pho. If you have a little more time in your schedule, then two days will give you more time to explore this small pocket of Old City Bangkok. Staying within Rattanakosin for a few nights at one of the fabulous boutique riverside hotels means you can maximize your time further.
The imposing Grand Palace complex from Sanam Chai Road. Photo by Michael Cullen
The Grand Palace—Heart of Bangkok Old City
King Rama I built a royal residence and administrative center for his new capital, with the Grand Palace at the city’s heart. Neatly enclosed by high, white-washed walls, the Grand Palace complex covers an area of nearly 50 acres and includes throne halls, royal residences, temples, and administration offices. The Thai royal family no longer lives here, but some buildings are used for royal ceremonies and host visiting Heads of State and dignitaries.
Bangkok, Thailand, at dusk, at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and Grand Palace. Photo by Sean Pavone via iStock by Getty Images
Visitors can access specific areas of the Royal complex, including Thailand’s holiest Buddhist temple, Wat Phra Kaeo, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. This diminutive Buddha figure carved from a single piece of Jade dates back to the 14th century or earlier. A visit to the Grand Palace is an opportunity to marvel at the architecture of this period. The gleaming temple buildings, golden stupas, and Euro-Thai design of the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, with the immaculate uniformed Palace Guards stationed at each entrance, are phenomenal. We recommend that you purchase Bangkok Temple tour tickets in advance.
The Grand Palace’s Chakri Maha Prasat Hall. Photo by Michael Cullen
The Queen Mother Puts Thailand on the Map
Before leaving the Grand Palace, I encourage you to stop at the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, included in your Grand Palace ticket. Here, you will learn how the current Queen Mother positioned Thai silk and other fabrics on the world stage. It also showcases her and her husband’s deeds. The Queen Mother and King Bhumibol (Rama IX) emboldened their people to advance into the fast-developing country it is today with great insights and glorious fashions to enjoy.
For the best Grand Palace viewing experience, I suggest showing up before opening time and before the tour buses arrive. This also means you will finish before the hottest part of the day.
Two Important Points About Dress Requirements
Strict dress requirements apply for The Grand Palace and Buddhist temples, including Wat Phra Kaeo (Emerald Buddha), Wat Pho, and Wat Arun. This means trousers or long skirts and tops that cover your shoulders. It also means nothing see-through. Also, speaking from experience, do not believe the scammers approaching you outside the Grand Palace. They will tell you that the Wat is closed for a holy festival or royal event. They will try to guide you to other attractions where they will earn a commission. Politely decline and head into the entrance. The official website displays opening days, times, and dress requirements.
Wat Pho
Immediately neighboring the southern side of The Grand Palace is the Wat Phra Chetuphon (Wat Pho) compound, which dates back to the same 18th-century era. Wat Pho temple complex boasts many firsts. This includes housing the kingdom’s first public university to conduct religious, science, and literature lessons. It remains an education center for traditional medicine and Thai massage.
Entering the inner courtyards of the Wat Pho complex. Photo by Michael Cullen
Wat Pho is Bangkok’s largest and oldest monastery. It is one of only six temples graded as first-class royal temples. Wat Pho is also home to the city’s largest reclining Buddha, measuring 150 feet long and 50 feet high. The reclining golden figure depicts Lord Buddha ascending into Nirvana after enlightenment. The Wat Pho complex also houses Thailand’s most extensive collection of Buddha images.
The magnificent Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. Photo by Michael Cullen
After an hour or two of wandering the complex, I suggest a Thai massage. Seek out one of the Chetawan Health Clinics in the riverside laneways opposite Wat Pho to experience a massage from one of Wat Pho school’s trained practitioners. Those wishing to delve deeper into these ancient therapeutic massage techniques can book half or full-day experiences or enroll in massage courses from the introductory to the professional level.
Museum Siam
It is often hit-or-miss when visiting museums in a foreign city. Therefore, let me introduce you to a gem that easily meets global museum standards thanks to its intuitive and experiential displays. One of the key exhibits seeks to explain “Thainess” from a local and international perspective. I loved how it challenged my perception of the country and people while educating me about Thai life. Museum Siam opens Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. It makes an ideal late afternoon visit following a Grand Palace and Wat Pho tour.
Museum Siam entrance. Photo by Michael Cullen
The Sanam Chai Metro station is directly under Museum Siam, making it easy to access Old City Bangkok if you are staying elsewhere in the city. Even if you are not taking the Metro, go down the escalators to check out the décor of this relatively new station. It shows the grand style of the Rattanakosin era.
Spectacular decor in the Sanam Chai Metro Station. Photo by Michael Cullen
Wat Arun
Wat Arun is on the Thonburi side of the river, immediately across from Old City Bangkok. Access is easy via the cross-river ferry from the Tha Tien Pier riverside near Wat Pho.
This site boasted a temple when the Siam capital was established on Thonburi. However, in the early 1900s, Kings Rama II and Rama III built what we see today, a 270-foot-high central prang (Khmer-style tower). This is the main feature, with four smaller towers marking each corner. The main tower gets its name from the Hindu god Aruṇa (signified by the rising sun). Wat Arun is also called the Temple of Dawn. It glints and shines in the early morning light thanks to the spires adorned with colorful floral murals made of glazed Chinese porcelain. Unlike most temples, you can climb the steep stairs of the central tower, which affords magnificent views of the river and across to Rattanakosin.
Wat Arun in the early morning light. Photo by Michael Cullen
Wat Arun at Sunset
During sunset, the iconic landmark of Wat Arun becomes an entirely new and spectacular sight. Rattanakosin riverside boutique hotel rooftop bars are the best place to view Wat Arun. A sunset of Wat Arun from across the river is a Bangkok memory in its own right and a must-do.
Wat Arun illuminated at sunset. Photo by Michael Cullen
Pak Khlong Market
What royal household or temple would be complete without floral decoration? Pak Khlong Market, Bangkok’s wholesale flower market, provides an excellent insight into market life. The delivery trucks from across the nation offload their colorful blooms in the hours before dawn. Start early, around 6:30 am, with coffee in hand. This is an excellent time to experience the color kaleidoscope, fragrant scents, and constant activity of the undercover market building, street-side stalls, and shops on Chakkraphet Road. Temple garland makers will already be collecting their blooms while florists, hoteliers, and restaurateurs from across the city secure their floral choices. Pak Khlong Market is the ultimate pre-breakfast outing.
A kaleidoscope of color at Pak Khlong Market. Photo by Michael Cullen
If you need breakfast, the cafes on the river side of Maharat Road opposite Tangtrongchit Technological College and Wat Pho will provide it.
Sanam Chai Road Attractions
While Maharat Road runs along the front of Wat Pho and The Grand Palace, Sanam Chai Road is immediately behind. Wander the half mile from Museum Siam to the northern wall of The Grand Palace. You will encounter points of interest. Start with the Drum Tower, the gloriously green and restful Saranrom Park, and the imposing statue of King Rama IV in front of Saranrom Palace. Continue to see the Ministry of Defence with lines of cannons displayed from the Ancient Artillery Museum. Finish with the City Pillars monument.
Cannon display as part of the Artillery Museum with the Ministry of Defence building in the background. Photo by Michael Cullen
Old City Bangkok Accommodation Ideas
You can find a selection of boutique accommodation choices on the lanes leading off Maharat Road between Museum Siam and Wat Pho. Most have direct river views. If staying in the family retreat of a former Thai prince takes your fancy, then Chakrabongse Villas, now run by the granddaughter of Prince Chakrabongse, could be a great option. Hotel Riva Arun Bangkok and Sala Rattanakosin are well-regarded hotels with great riverfront locations. Riva Arun has rooftop dining, while the Rooftop Bar at Sala Rattanakosin is my pick for sundown cocktails while watching a Wat Arun sunset.
Boutique hotel accommodation with a view. Photo courtesy of Sala Rattanakosin
Eating Options
Along Maharat Road, which runs in front of Wat Pho and The Grand Palace, are great casual eateries, while down the lanes to the riverside are some upmarket eateries. Daytime around the Tha Tien Pier, you will find several very casual Thai eateries that I have tried and found tasty and satisfying. In the evening, the boutique hotel restaurants provide great riverfront dining choices.
Casual eating options around Tha Tien Pier. Photo by Michael Cullen
How to Get to Bangkok From Anywhere in Thailand
No matter where you decide to vacation in Thailand, you’ll want to spend some time in Bangkok. Here is a short guide on how to get to Bangkok from anywhere in Thailand.
- From the International Airport: You can easily grab a taxi at Suvarnabhumi International Airport for a quick ride into Bangkok. The City Line runs between 6 AM and Midnight and makes six stops before ending at the Phayathai Station downtown in about 30 minutes. The Airport Rail Link connects to the MRT underground at Makkasan City Interchange Station or the BTS Skytrain at Phayathai Station. The entrance is on the first floor of the airport.
- From Phuket: If you are in Phuket, you can fly or take a bus. The bus ride is cheap (under $35) but takes about 13 hours. The flight is a quick four hours, usually costing around $100. We recommend visiting the southern beaches during your trip, like Karon Beach in Phuket.
- From Chiang Mai: You can travel by bus, train, or airplane to get from the mountain town of Chiang Mai to Bangkok. Flying is only about 3 hours and is quite inexpensive, usually under $85. The train is under $50 but takes about 10 hours, while the bus is slightly cheaper but also takes about 10 hours.
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Old City Bangkok is a Must for Visitors
Old City Bangkok or Rattanakosin has so much to offer visitors. It is an excellent introduction to the kingdom’s history while showcasing its cultural highlights. I hope this guide has inspired you to explore Bangkok’s birthplace. When planning your next trip to Thailand, Asia, or Europe, reference Wander with Wonder to find incredible places to stay, eat, and play.
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