My first time in the South of France was magical. I landed at the airport in Nice on a gorgeous sunny day–one of the more than 300 you’ll find on the Côte d’Azur each year. As I made my way from the airport to my destination of Antibes Juan-les-Pins, the words Victor Hugo wrote about the small town seemed accurate. “Everything here is radiant, everything is in bloom, everything sings,” he wrote. “The sun, women, love are all at home here. My eyes and my soul are still dazzled.”

Hotel Juana—an Art Deco Gem

As I walked through the front doors of my hotel, the Art Deco gem, Hotel Juana, my eyes were still daz­zled. The newly remodeled 1930s hotel wraps you in elegance the moment you walk into the lobby. I checked in and made my way to the fourth floor in the vintage 1930 “Stigler” elevator with the aid of one of the best young concierges I’ve met anywhere.

The rooms were beautiful with an understated so­phistication. The best part, however, was when I pulled back my drapes. My breath caught as I viewed an ex­panse of blue water melding with blue sky. The Medi­terranean was only a few short blocks away, its waters reflecting the midday sun. Below I watched guests sunbathing around the white marble pool while others sat casually on the patio under the umbrellas of La Terrasse-Club, the hotel’s trendy restaurant.

I mapped out a path in my mind from the front entrance of the hotel, through the park across the street, and on to the little shops lining the waterfront.

After a casual stroll through a few shops, I made my way about a half block from the hotel to Les Pech­eurs, a gourmet restaurant decorated in luxurious yacht-style decor. A wide terrace offered breathtak­ing views of the sea. The meal was elegant; from the Baccarat crystal water glasses to the luscious truffles, making everything—even my whipped potatoes—seem decadent.

I awoke the next morning to break­fast in my room. A lovely young girl with a wide smile entered the room with a breakfast tray and I could smell the aroma of fresh bread. The little pastries were everything I’d hoped for and more. The simple butter croissants were any­thing but run-of-the-mill, but the choco­late-filled pastries were my favorite.

Exploring Antibes

After just enough breakfast to satis­fy me—and make me anticipate the next few mornings at Hotel Juana—I met a wonderful tour guide, Peter, who works for the tourist bureau, and we ambled through the old town of Antibes Juan­-les-Pins.

Old Town Antibes

Antibes was a Roman town, with sections of the original ramparts still evident. Like most European towns, Antibes includes a large pedestrian area where you can walk the old cobblestone streets without the worry of automobiles running you down.

Our first stop was at the Marche Provençal. The bustling mar­ket is held every Tuesday through Sunday morning from September through May and daily during the summer months. I walked the aisles, my mouth al­ready watering over the displays of French cheeses.

There were tables filled with spices. Even for someone who loves gourmet cooking, I found exotic spices I’ve never before seen.

There were some of the biggest heirloom tomatoes anywhere and the fresh-from-the-garden vegetables looked tempting. The crowning glory for me was the bread. The fresh-baked scent filled my senses. I could almost taste the soft interior. I decided I’d be satisfied to spend the rest of my trip sitting on the beach with warm ba­guette and a wedge of goat cheese. But I was glad I didn’t.

Visiting Absinthe Bar La Balade

Juan-les-Pins held so many more treasures for me. Our next stop was at the Ab­sinthe Bar La Balade, just a few short steps from the market. It was fascinating and even at 10 a.m., I de­cided I had to try the bitter green liquid steeped in tradition and intrigue.

Banned for nearly a century, blamed for Picasso’s madness and said to have caused Van Gogh to slice off his ear, absinthe has long been shrouded in mys­tery and mystique. Once a part of turn-of-the-century France’s Bohemian scene, drinking absinthe is all about ritual, and elicits images of musicians, artists, and writers in small Parisian cafes.

Today, there is an absinthe revival throughout Europe and you can sample it using the same ritual popular over a century ago. I made my way down narrow winding stairs to the underground bar, its rock walls holding antique absinthe bottles and the various tools created for the proper drinking ritual.

The proprietor and Peter (my guide) were more than eager to show me the proper way to drink the anise-flavored spirit. The owner went to one of the tall glass urns at the bar and filled it with four parts ice-cold water and one part absinthe. He carefully placed the silver slotted absinthe spoon over the lip of a reservoir glass and topped it with a sugar cube. He opened the valve so a small amount of liq­uid poured out over the sugar and down into the reservoir.

Considering it was mid-morning and that I’m not a connoisseur of hard liquor, I managed a small sip and sup­pressed a cough. The owner and Peter both laughed as they downed their drinks. I just hoped Peter could continue to guide me after a glass of the potent drink.

Exploring the Picasso Museum

We wandered back outside and spent the next couple of hours at the Picasso Museum. Chateau Grimaldi houses a wonderful little museum. The Grimaldi family lived in the castle until 1608. It has been a museum since 1928. In 1946, Picasso set up a studio in part of the castle and spent several months there. Over the next few years, he gave the museum 28 paintings, 54 drawings, and 79 ceramics.

The museum was renamed after the great artist in 1949 and continues to be one of the best collections of Picasso’s work.

Commune Libre du Safranier

It was getting time for lunch-the flavors of Provence make it hard to ig­nore the fantastic cuisine­ and Peter knew the perfect place. We made our way to the Commune Libre du Saf­ranier, which translates to the Free Commune of Le Safranier.

This little sec­tion of the old town works to retain traditions and to ensure that the flavor of the neighborhood remains untouched. We found an outside table at La Taverne de Safranier.

The small res­taurant looked like what we might call a dive in the US, but the waiter served food you’d only find at gourmet restaurants in the States. The first course was a massive plate of fresh sea­food. The owner excitedly told me that he’d picked up the fish fresh that morning from the fishermen in the market. It included several types of fish, langoustines, mussels, and squid cooked in various ways.

They followed that with a luscious Sea Bass cooked inside a flaky pastry. We ended our meal with a selection of fresh fruit and little tarts. I was stuffed and wanted to walk off the meal. Pe­ter once again had the perfect place.

Exploring Cap d’Antibes

Just out of town, the coastline juts out into the Mediterranean. The thin spit of land and its rocky coast is Cap d’Antibes. The road winds from old town through the more modern Juan-les-Pins with its high-rise waterfront apartments and a variety of hotels and comes out in a quiet neigh­borhood that is home to the rich and famous.

One unforgettable sight is Hotel du Cap-Éden-Roc, which opened in 1870. This is likely one of the most luxurious hotels in the world. It has housed such greats as Ernest Hemingway, Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford, Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich, and Charles de Gaulle.

Further along the route is Hotel Belles Rives, the former home of F. Scott Fitzgerald. This unique hotel has preserved nearly all the original furniture and decorations. Finally, we arrived at our destination.

We ambled down the small Tirepoil path at the end of the Garoupe beaches along the eastern half of the Cap d’Antibes. It was breathtaking with the water pounding against the rocky coast. After a brisk walk through a couple of rugged areas, we ended up at Eilenroc Gardens.

The city now maintains these gar­dens surrounding the Eilenroc Mansion. A wealthy Dutchman completed the villa in 1867. The architects who created the Paris and Monte Carlo Opera Houses designed this opulent Italian­-style villa.

Over the years, Eilenroc has changed hands several times. One owner added a lush garden and it has been the backdrop for numerous movies. Today, you can wander the gardens during day­light hours. There are guided tours of the villa every Wednesday from 9 a.m. to noon and 1:30 to 5 p.m.

Flavors of Provence

I had just enough time after the walk to rush back to the hotel and change for dinner. More food. The flavors of Provence were going to garner me at least 20 pounds on the trip. Dinner was an­other exceptional feast.

We dined at Les Vieux Murs overlooking the water. The deep red tones of the restaurant and the old stone walls are the perfect backdrops for an unforgettable evening. The tapenade, a Provernçal specialty of finely chopped olives, capers, and olive oil, was mouth-watering on more of that hot French bread.

The residents of the South of France do everything at a slower pace than most of the rest of the world and dinner is no exception. Over the next three hours, we tasted more food than I’ve ever tasted at a single sitting. The menu included a small as­paragus soup with parmesan, cream, and grilled bread, followed by red mullet, veal with potatoes and artichoke, langoustine in a leek sauce, roasted duck, and beef braised in truffle-infused whipped potatoes.

As if dinner weren’t enough, the waiter brought out bowls of whipped chocolate with vanilla ice cream. I was preparing to leave when he once again appeared at the table, this time pushing a cart of cheese. You haven’t experienced French dining without experienc­ing the cheese cart. The young man explained the var­ious cheeses and I picked several to taste.

I waddled back to the hotel and literally fell into bed.

A Perfect Day in Provence

My next day was a bit more relaxing after the whirlwind of the first day. Following my obligatory chocolate croissant, I set out for Port Gallice to meet a dashing French sailor who took me out on his sailboat.

Sailing on the Mediterranean

We spent the morning sailing on the sea between the coast and the Lerins Islands. There, a massive castle made famous in the movie The Man in the Iron Mask overlooks the bay. With the wind in my hair, the water spar­kling alongside, and white sails dotting the horizon, I decided right then I had found that place on earth where I was meant to be.

Once again, when we arrived back at Port Gallice, it was time to find food. I decided that everything I’d heard about Provence was true and my trip was as much a culinary adventure as one exploring the people and places of the region.

Lunch at Keller Plage

This time I made my way back to Cap d’Antibes and down onto Keller Plage (Keller Beach). The restaurant Le Cesar sits right on the beach, the sand reaching to the edges of the patio.

The bright yellow and white beach umbrellas and lounges against the white sand and blue water backdrop mesmerized me.

I sampled another amazing array of food and sipped a glass of rosé wine. It was one perfect day I’ll never forget. I spent the rest of the day exploring Juan-les-Pins and surrounding areas.

Exploring Nearby Grasse

The next day, I drove up to Grasse, a pictur­esque village known as the world’s Perfume Capital. The fields studded with lavender and wildflowers, the gor­geous rose gardens, and acres of olive trees made the drive an experience in its own right.

Making Perfume

But the day wasn’t com­plete without a visit to the Molinard Perfume Factory. It was fascinating to learn about blending the fragrances. I was even able to create my own perfume.

The factory of­fers tours Monday through Friday and on the weekends you can take a 90-minute class along with a 20-minute orientation tour to create your own fragrance.

Dinner at La Bastide Saint-Antoine

I completed the evening-and my trip to Juan-les­Pins-with a dinner at La Bastide Saint-Antoine in Grasse. There, inside a typical French chateau with breathtaking views over the olive groves to the coast, Chef Jacques Chibois created an exquisite truffle-­themed dinner.

The mushroom soup was beyond com­pare, created with morels and truffles. The next morning as I watched the sun turn the water into brilliant colors, I realized why so many artists sought out this place. It was inspiring, nature’s canvas filled with sights and sounds and fragrances like noth­ing I’d found anywhere else. Victor Hugo was right. My eyes and my soul were still dazzled.