Situated in the Northern Rocky Mountains and gateway to stunning Glacier National Park, Whitefish, Montana, will surprise you. Whitefish is a hotbed of outdoor recreation and the type of place where you might want to pack bear spray even for a day hike. Still, it also has a relaxing, more refined side than even the most avid rock climbing, mountain biking, white-water-rafting-type will appreciate. And, if you’re looking for a relaxing, not-so-active getaway, you can also find that in Whitefish, Montana.

Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park is often quiet enough to let photographers capture a mirror image of the mountains in the morning. Photo courtesy Glacier National Park

Garden Wall Inn

In the historic section of central Whitefish, within walking distance of everything, is an oasis of comfort and calm. A freshly-made fire in the fireplace welcomes you after a busy day. Each morning, a classically trained chef prepares your breakfasts. The Garden Wall Inn, a boutique hotel on a corner of a tree-lined street, is set in a two-story white clapboard home dating back to 1923. The inn fits well into the historic residential neighborhood—walk just a block past more quaint homes to the little park where you can access the Whitefish Bike and Pedestrian Trail along the Whitefish River.

This charming 1920s inn has five rooms and is central to all the activities and sights of Whitefish. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

I flew into nearby Glacier Park International Airport, and after the short drive into downtown Whitefish, was ready to freshen up before dinner. I was happily surprised to find my dream bathroom awaiting.

Just what you need after a day of walking, hiking, or biking—a claw-foot soaking tub! Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

A porcelain claw-foot tub with fluffy monogrammed towels and robe in an art-deco black and white bathroom caught my eye as I explored my antique-filled room. A perfect red rose in a sterling silver vase accented the neutral décor.

My elegant but cozy queen-bed room was on the first floor and was amazingly quiet throughout my stay. I unpacked, rested, and chatted with the innkeeper, who was as willing to share information and history as he was to let me settle in. They understand the individual needs of guests at the Garden Wall Inn. After dinner, I was surprised to find they had turndown service and had left me a little silver tray with a delightful local-made chocolate truffle.

The local chocolate truffles made a perfect bedtime snack. Photo courtesy Garden Wall Inn

The Garden Wall Breakfast Experience

After a relaxing sleep, I got up early to explore. While the inn does have a garden and porches where you can hang out, the name comes from the Garden Wall area in Glacier National Park, steep alpine terrain filled with flowering plants in summer. Both owners/chefs Rhonda Fitzgerald and Chris Schustrom are lifelong outdoor enthusiasts and love the National Park.

When I checked in to the Garden Wall Inn, innkeeper Chris offered to bring coffee or tea to my room in the morning at my chosen time. It’s a relaxing way to start the day. After getting ready for the day’s activities, guests head to the dining room for a delightful multi-course farm-to-table breakfast.

Chef/Owner Rhonda Fitzgerald prepares a coffee tray to be taken to a guest’s room before breakfast. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

Owner Rhonda Fitzgerald greeted us dressed in her crisp, white Cordon Bleu chef’s jacket. As she brought out fresh-squeezed orange juice and fresh fruit, she explained exactly where to purchase fresh fruit and vegetables in town and what day the product will be at its best.

It isn’t unusual for her to shop in four stores or go directly to the farmers for her breakfast ingredients (watch for fresh-picked huckleberries in summer). She’s active in the local farm-to-table movement and founded the farmer’s market. We discovered that her breakfasts are fresh and local—and works of art in themselves.

Sweet, decadent crepes are served as just one of the Garden Wall Inn breakfast courses. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

Both local and exotic fruits filled the plates, the muffins were warm, and the fresh-squeezed juice was sweetly refreshing. Main courses are equally as pretty and provide guests with protein (eggs, ham, or fish is typical) and more local touches.

Because of its complexity and local sourcing, a favorite was Rhonda’s Garden Wall Eggs in Puff Pastry. She scrambled free-range organic eggs from local Earthstar Farm combined with shrimp, crimini mushrooms, and snow peas from Snow Country Gardens. Then the mixture was folded into light puff pastry baskets and topped with a light lemon dill sauce. The dill and other herbs were from the inn’s garden, and the ripe strawberry garnish was from The Wicked Good Farm. 

The Garden Wall Eggs in Puff Pastry was a hit. The inn’s suppliers, all family farms, are in Whitefish and the Kalispell Kreamery is just a few miles southwest of town. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

We also learned that the lovely Blue Willow china had a purpose. Rhonda said that food is the most attractive served on blue china. I had to agree. And the cut crystal glasses, crisp white linens, and silver accent pieces added to the overall elegance of the breakfast. I have to add that breakfast attire ranges from bike shorts to down vests. After all, you are in Montana, where your outdoor activities dictate your dress.

Getting to Whitefish

Glacier Park International Airport in Kalispell, with direct flights from major cities, is just 15 minutes from where I stayed at Garden Wall Inn. Amtrak’s historic depot is a walkable six blocks from the inn. Whitefish Montana is accessible from many west coast locations for a long weekend or an extended vacation. If you find yourself in Kalispell in time for lunch or dinner, you might want to check out some of the best restaurants in Kalispell, MT, before you head out to explore Whitefish.

Exploring Downtown Whitefish

Once you’ve settled in—and perhaps after consulting with Chris and Rhonda at Garden Wall Inn, it is time to explore Whitefish. There is so much within walking distance of the inn. These walkable outings are must-dos for your relaxing getaway at the Garden Wall Inn and are only a tiny sample of what you can enjoy in this beautiful Rocky Mountain town.

Walking the Whitefish Trails

While the Whitefish Trail is a 42-mile system of trails for hiking and biking for all ability levels, I chose to stroll the paved paths the locals call “Fish Trails” that would take me downtown. Starting at Riverside Park, close to the Garden Wall Inn, I noticed that there were places to launch kayaks—ducks plied the quiet waters.

The urban part of the Whitefish Trail takes you downtown past places to put in your kayak. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

The short walk downtown provided me with views of the river and an interesting educational stop at a pond to learn about the little floating water treatment “islands” made with post-consumer plastic that helped reduce pollutants. But soon, I was downtown and walked up from the river to check out some of the services and shops (and breweries, too).

Railway Avenue in downtown Whitefish provides excellent shopping along with stunning mountain views. Photo courtesy Explore Whitefish

Going to the Salt Spa

I had heard about another relaxing way to spend time in Whitefish— The SaltBox dry salt therapy spa. The health effects of that beautiful pink Himalayan Sea Salt weren’t new to me but what I was to encounter was a full spa dedicated to state-of-the-art dry salt therapy.

While you can get more traditional massage treatments at The Salt Box, the draw is rooms where you can sit in a comfortable chair on a floor of salt crystals, put your feet up, fix your eyes on a beautiful wall of salt blocks, and receive the comforting and healthful benefits of the fine salt filtered into the room during your session.

A wall of salt, a floor of soft salt, and salt in the air provide relaxation and healing at Salt Box Dry Therapy in Whitefish. Photo courtesy Salt Box Spa

You may get some salt on your skin (wear shorts and a tank top) as the fine particles of dry salt surround you. No matter what, you will come out of that room relaxed and rejuvenated—the escape from sensory overload was a welcome change from a busy, over-stimulated life.

Shopping for Unique Gifts

Downtown Whitefish, with its western-style covered sidewalks, has some great shopping. You can shop for fine jewelry made with sparkling Montana sapphires, find an outdoorsy t-shirt for your favorite little one, and shop for western glam and Lucchese Boots at S.M. Bradford Company. I especially enjoyed seeing the work of local artists at Whitefish Pottery.

S.M. Bradford was the place for high-end western wear and decor—totally fun to peruse. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

Dining Local in Whitefish, Montana

Whitefish has an active and creative culinary community. While you can get some delicious pub food, local fine dining venues offer an excellent cross between traditional locally sourced foods and creative international flair. Annually, during Feast Whitefish, many local restaurants trot out their best dishes for a week of prix fixe three-course dining.

We enjoyed the vibrant Abruzzo Italian Kitchen while sitting at long tables looking at the huge wood-fired oven. They make everything in-house by hand, from scratch, including the fresh pasta and wood-fired pizzas. Abruzzo also features an Italian-focused cocktail program and an Italian-centric wine list (try one of the Chiantis). You’ll know you are in Whitefish when you look on the appetizer menu and see things like Elk Tartare: seared elk, lemon, capers, and red onion. The morel mushrooms, used in an appetizer with poached egg, shallots, and Italian cheese, were locally foraged.

Abruzzo’s Italian Kitchen has an open floorplan so watching the wood-fired pizzas being made and cocktails created was a highlight of the evening. Photo courtesy Abruzzo Italian Kitchen

Another evening we headed for Pescado Blanco for a locally sourced, Mexican-inspired cuisine adventure that surprised us with such specialties as the Chef’s local elk chorizo with caramelized onions, crimini mushrooms, and roasted sweet chiles. The special of the evening was grilled wild Coho salmon garnished with avocado, tomatoes, and pepper. As a fan of Pacific Northwest salmon AND Mexican food, I have to say this was the best salmon dish I had experienced in a long time—creative and fresh.

Pescado Blanco’s Mexican-fusion masa-seared Sockeye salmon was topped with a poblano cream sauce and arugula Pico de Gallo and served with cilantro rice and local vegetables. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

Why You Relax in Whitefish

While this has been an enticement to get you to visit beautiful Whitefish, Montana, surrounded by snow-capped peaks to pamper yourself, the truth is that there is a reason you’ll need a bit of relaxation. You’ll want to get out and hike the beautiful Glacier National Park, bike the iconic Going-to-the-Sun-Road in the spring before they open it to cars, and ski at the close-by White Mountain Resort in the winter.

An accessible boardwalk takes you along the Trail of the Cedars in Glacier National Park. Photo by Elizabeth R Rose

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When You Head to Whitefish, Montana for a Relaxing Stay

A stay at the Garden Wall Inn will put you in the middle of it all. Glacier National Park is a quick half-hour drive from the inn. The free S.N.O.W. bus between Whitefish and Whitefish Mountain Resort stops at the Inn in winter and a few blocks from the inn in summer. And, if you want to experience something new, the innkeepers will arrange for you to fish with a guide, learn to rock climb, rent a kayak, tour breweries with Big Sky Brews Cruise, or go horseback riding. Read more about the area in our action-packed article about adventures in Whitefish, Montana, and check out what other Wander writers say about their visits to Montana.

Wandering Whitefish, Montana: Relax in an Outdoor Paradise